Hey there! Thought I would introduce myself and show what I've been up to. Just made this as a very general guide to other people just getting into things! In addition to the below, I've started a blog at weeships.wordpress.com so you can follow there, while I figure out the formatting.
I’ve taken the plunge and decided to get into wargaming. I’ll be using the General Quarters 3 rules (battle reports will be coming) and Figurehead 1/6000 ships to recreate naval battles from the Pacific Theatre of WWII. In this first post, I will be showing the contents of Figurehead blisters, how to prep those models for painting, and how they look along the various steps.
I opted for 1/6000 scale because it is very cost effective, maintains an appropriate scale with limited table space, and Figurehead models are pretty great. I ordered mine from Scale Specialties, which offer very good prices on these beautiful minis.
This is how the ships come packaged. Destroyers come eight to a pack, cruisers in three or four per pack, and larger ships two to three per pack.
The number of ships per pack is usually relative to the number of real ships per class. For example, the Japanese light cruiser pack comes with two Tenryu-class cruisers and one Yubari-class, which is how many of either ship was built! To further aid your gaming/modeling, the back of the package includes information on the ship class and the names of ships in that class. Very handy!
The models are very clean, requiring very little in the way of filing or removal, and having very little flash (excess metal) or mold lines. They also come in re-sealable bags which is nice for interim storage while cleaning/painting.
As you may have noticed in the above picture, they are not without flaw. The smokestacks on these Craven-class DDs were all bent and had to be eased back into an upright position and cleaned of flash. That being said, it went well and the little guys were in ship-shape in no time.
So! On to actual work, yes? Use a metal file, sandpaper, or an exacto blade to clean your models of flash, mold lines, and other flaws. If using an exacto blade like I did, make sure the blade is flush with the work and gentle scrape away whatever needs to be removed. The dull side can be used to pick at metal and nudge things (smokestacks) around, too.
Next, prep some warm water with a drop of dishsoap to clean the models. The models are, “dirty,” out of the box with release agent (used to get them out of the molds), dirt, and miscellaneous packaging goop. Use an old toothbrush and clean them off. I use an old mug to hold my soapy water and just wash the ships individually. You could easily use your sink so long as you have a strainer over the drain.
Once that’s done and the models have dryed, the next step will be to prime the miniatures. I use Army Painter white primer. I find that it goes down really smooth and thin so that no detail is lost. You can get away with using cheaper stuff you find at the nearest Walmart/Target/what-have-you, but I have had issues with losing detail with those types. I use white because I like more vibrant colors and because smaller miniatures are more likely to appear darker to the eye.
When using spray-paint of any type, you need to shake the can vigorously for at least 1.5 minutes. I go for two minutes just to be safe. You want to spray from about 6-8 inches (15-20cm) away from the miniatures, starting away from the miniatures (so that any, “spit,” or abnormality with the paint can be found before shooting it on your miniatures) and then evenly sweep it over your models from side-to-side. Then, rotate the models and prime their other side. Two passes is ideal to balance coverage and detail.
Takao-class Heavy Cruisers
Fubuki-class Destroyers
Gridley/Bagley/Benham-class Destroyers
Northampton-class Heavy Cruisers
http://i.imgur.com/iJ8OiwV.jpg
As you can see, detail is already visible and they’re becoming more than hunks of metal.The models are on a masking tape which is low-adhesive so they’re very easy to pluck off once finished. Primer takes 24 hours to cure, so do not paint your models until at least a day has passed since you primed them.
Other bits of knowledge: If using spray-paints, upend the bottle and discharge until the spray is clear to prevent paint from clogging within the can. Be patient! Rushing will only cost you time in the long-run. And have fun!
I hope you’ve enjoyed this first post. This will be followed by painting how-to’s, progress on the ships, rule reviews, and battle reports! Stick around!