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#201 Peter M. Skaar

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Posted 06 May 2023 - 09:26 AM

Here are a few pictures of my Panther D turrets.  I put the decals on these a few days ago.  This part is tricky because unlike the Panther A and G which have nice flat turret sides, the D has a couple of protrusions which I believe are pistol ports plus a small hatch on the left side as well.  Putting the decals on the left side was really no issue for me but the right side posed more of a problem with the location of the pistol port on the upper right side.

My first turret that I applied the decals to was #431.  I put the decals on and on the right side there was some distortion of the 1 as it got pulled over toward the 3 because of the protrusion.  I solved the basic problem on the other turrets by carefully separating the 2nd from the 3rd number on the right side.  This allowed the 3rd number to be in much better position to the other 2 numbers on the side.

Shown are both sides of #431 and #421.  I think 421 turned out pretty good overall but I will live with the fact that 431 is just a wee bit off.

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                    #431 Left Side

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                    #431 Right Side

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                    #421 Left Side

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                    #421 Right Side

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                    #424 Right Side


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#202 healey36

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Posted 07 May 2023 - 07:40 AM

Those look very sharp, Peter, especially given the 1/285-scale. It can be difficult to get decals to set on some protruding detail, for sure, and no amount of MicroSol can make it work (sometimes it will just dissolve the decal if too much is applied). On larger scales, one can cut the decal into bits and apply it in pieces, but that's nearly impossible at 1/285-1/300 (at least for me). 

 

The positioning of tank numbers was a bit of an inexact art-form, especially for the Germans during the later years/months of the war, so I think you can take some liberties in choosing where to put them. I've seen some photos where the only number applied was on the rear of the turret, with no markings on the sides. 



#203 Peter M. Skaar

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Posted 15 May 2023 - 08:42 PM

Thank you very much, Healey!  There are numerous examples of numbers that are hastily applied as well as those that are more precise.



#204 healey36

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Posted 09 June 2023 - 10:57 AM

KMS Graf Spee (Viking Forge) and SS Actor (Panzerschiffe) in 1/2400:

 

Graf Spee And MS
 
Graf Spee is an old Viking Forge casting I've had in the lead-pile for ages; finally got back to trying to make something of it. I think it's one of their earliest castings, so it shows its age. It would have been better if the main-battery were individual castings, but they are not, so they look a bit funky. I added a couple of guitar-string masts and a GHQ Ar-296 floatplane. The forward part of the deck up on the forecastle should be gray, but I messed up and just carried the tan too far. I might go back and redo that, as it will bug the crap out me. Otherwise, a basecoat of Krylon medium gray enamel, then Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics with Vallejo black wash mixed with a drop of matt medium for flow. I'm still using ODGW etched bases for most of my warships.
 
The merchant ship is from Panzerschiffe's merchant group MG-3. It's their representation of SS Custodian or SS Actor, a pair of medium sized freighters from the WWI era (although both remained in service until WWII). When you're building out convoys, you don't want to spend too much of the defense budget on generic steamers, so the Panzerschiffe merchant groups are an inexpensive way to fill the roster. They are not, however, the best looking little models, primarily the result of the excessively tall freeboard (even if travelling in ballast). Efforts to file them down a bit so that they sit a bit lower in the water is difficult; they are cast in epoxy, which is hard as nails. I might take the Dremel to the next one and see if that will cut it down a bit faster without removing my fingertips.
 
I added a a bit of superstructure behind the bridge to make it look a little better, along with hatch covers and other deck bits. A couple of short masts were made using brass wire. Paint was a basecoat of Krylon medium gray, then Vallejo acrylics and wash. I tried adding davits for the cast-on lifeboats, but that was way too fiddly (although I'll likely try that again). Also, the funnel should be much taller; I should have cut the original one off, drilled a hole, then replaced it with a piece of styrene or a piece of thicker wire.
 
The MS' base is crafted from a strip of thin plexi cut from a large sheet I found at the local craft store. I cut the strips by clamping the sheet to the workbench under a steel straight-edge. I then use a sharp Xacto or box-cutter to score the sheet, then snap off the strip. The edge can be a bit ragged, but running it over a fine-toothed file will remove the roughness. Then you can cut bits to any length you need, score-n-snap. The challenge is rounding the corners. I tried using the corner-cutter I use for game counters, but that frequently results in tiny cracks or chips in the plexi, so I usually just round them off with a file, then some super-fine sandpaper. It's important to get smooth edges and corners if you use a fabric "sea" on the game table; otherwise, lots of snagging and catching on the material which can result in damage to the models. Many folks don't base their 1/2400-scale models, but I've found basing provides a bit less wear-n-tear on the paint jobs and the detail bits. Note, I don't apply labels to the merchant ship models anymore; instead, I'll just tape a label to the underside for any ship in any given scenario. They all tend to be rather generic anyway, so I'll just look through the cabinet to find one that approximates the ship required and apply a paper label in some manner that can easily be removed afterwards. 
 
Also noted, Loctite has stopped making my favorite glue (GO2). No one local has it, and when I tried ordering some from Amazon, the 3rd-party vendor sent me a tube of Loctite "Extreme" glue (costing nearly three times what GO2 was costing me). I did notice that GO2 didn't seem to have much shelf-life after you opened it, so maybe that's why it's been discontinued. Bummer. 
 
On to the next.


#205 Peter M. Skaar

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Posted 14 June 2023 - 02:47 PM

Very nice, Healey!  It is interesting to see some of these old castings.  I have lots of unpainted GHQ ships from both  WWI and WWII to paint.



#206 healey36

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Posted 19 June 2023 - 02:06 PM

Thanks, Peter. I've been making some slow progress on the lead-pile. Lately, I've had a few more completed than new kits/figures arriving...that's progress for me.

Today, a bit of the mundane. I spent a few hours scanning, printing, mounting, and cutting/trimming a new marker set for HBL. The sheet(s) that come with the game are a bit big (3/4-inch square); my preference is 1/2-inch, so I made a set that size:

HBL markers


After mounting the scans on matt board, I gave the sheets an overspray of clear satin lacquer to protect them a bit, then cut them using a guillotine paper cutter. Last step, clipping the corners, took about 90 minutes.
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#207 Peter M. Skaar

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Posted 22 June 2023 - 12:20 AM

Those look very good, Healey!



#208 Kenny Noe

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Posted 22 June 2023 - 05:13 AM

Nice work!!   BTW - Look for the American Civil War Databook for Historical Batlielines soon!!   Cover is almost done and final edits are in....  well edit.  <grin>



#209 healey36

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Posted 27 June 2023 - 06:15 PM

Nice work!!   BTW - Look for the American Civil War Databook for Historical Batlielines soon!!   Cover is almost done and final edits are in....  well edit.  <grin>


I’m looking forward to it. I played GDW’s “Johnny Reb” rules for years, but am looking forward to giving HBL a spin.

#210 healey36

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Posted 02 July 2023 - 08:46 PM

Slava-class Soviet cruiser Varyag in 1/3000, a 3D print from a Shapeways vendor:

 

Varyag
 
I believe the pennant number should be "011", but cutting one up from a sheet was way too fiddly; "11" will have to do. Sister-ship to the recently departed Moskva, for reference.
 
When is the modern era update for GQ-III due out?  ;)

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#211 healey36

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Posted 05 July 2023 - 03:37 PM

I reached out to 3D Rapid Prototyping to see if I could get some of WTJ's files printed (five Cressy-class cruisers). 3DRP is listed on WTJ's website as one of the print shops they've worked with in the past. When you buy a WTJ print-file, you get two versions; one is 1/1280 and one is 1/1800. I of course wanted 1/2400, so, working with Paul C. at 3DRP, we figured out we could "simply" reduce the 1/1200 file by roughly 50% (the WTJ conversion table states 52%). He sent me the expected dimensions, and they ring up to those of the one WTJ Cressy-class I already have in the fleet cabinet. I'm looking forward to seeing how they turn out. I asked if they could remove the annoying gun tube-supports and he said yes, so fingers crossed.



#212 Peter M. Skaar

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Posted 07 July 2023 - 12:18 AM

The Varyag looks very nice, Healey.  The only modern ships I have painted are for the GHQ catalog.  The closest example I have done to your model is the Taizhou of the Chinese Navy.



#213 Kenny Noe

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Posted 07 July 2023 - 05:29 AM

 

When is the modern era update for GQ-III due out?  ;)

 

Need to ask Lonnie!!!!   :P



#214 healey36

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Posted 09 July 2023 - 11:56 AM

Creeping towards a few plays of HBL, so I headed up to the attic to dig out whatever minis I might still have. As it turns out, quite a few. Here's the first set I ever painted, some MIniFigs 15mm (can't remember if the pack came with command figures or if I added them from elsewhere, Stone Mountain perhaps):

 

Confederate infantry b
 
Confederate infantry a
 
I recall buying this small bag of MiniFigs at least 35 years ago from The Armory, a game supply wholesaler in Pikesville, Maryland. On the weekends they'd open the warehouse to the public. Bought a ton of stuff in there over a few years.
 
Back then, when you bought figures from MiniFigs, they were all posed the same (as you can see here). If you wanted any variation in poses/equipment, you had to accomplish that yourself. The first time out, I just cleaned them and painted them, then based them for GDW's Johnny Reb ruleset, basically five stands of 3-5 figures on one-inch square bases represented a regiment. They should work for HBL just fine. I hit these with a light wash and a bit of dry-brush this AM; otherwise, the paint job is 30+ years old.
 
I also remember buying these flags mail-order, so it was a long time ago (pre-internet). I think the printer was an outfit called Signifer...no idea if they are still in business, but perhaps not if their gig was just printing miniature flags.
 
Meanwhile, more ships arrived in the mail yesterday, five WTJ 3D prints from 3DRP representing the balance of the Cressy-class cruisers. The prints look sharp, so until I figure out how to print these myself, I have a source and won't run out.


#215 Peter M. Skaar

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Posted 10 July 2023 - 01:23 PM

Those Civil War troops look really good, Healey!  Even though they are 30 years old they still are very well done.  I have a lot of the GHQ 10mm Civil War troops which have a very similar look by the way in terms of the poses that you show.

Here are some Tiger Is that I currently have on my workbench.  These are going to be part of 2nd Company, 503rd Schwere Abteilung as they appeared around the time of Kursk.  I have 10 of them altogether which will give me 2 platoons plus the HQ element. I have finished the basic camo pattern but now need to go back and add another layer or two.  The last picture is one of my reference photos.

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#216 healey36

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Posted 10 July 2023 - 01:38 PM

Thanks, Peter. Looking through old 15mm ACW has been fun; brought back a lot of memories.

 

Tiger I is, hands down, the fave German vehicle here. Always loved the big squared-off look about them. Who needs sloped armor? The perfect combination of thick armor and a deadly main gun. Torsion-bar suspension, over-lapping road wheels...what's not to love? I'm looking forward to seeing how these turn out. You're going to need a bunch of JS-II's or Firefly's for a fair fight. 



#217 Kenny Noe

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Posted 10 July 2023 - 01:48 PM

Fair fight with Tigers?!?   Nah, give me Typhoon's with RP-3 rockets!!!   bwahahahahah



#218 healey36

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Posted 11 July 2023 - 06:58 AM

And that would be fair, how?  :lol:   A rocket down through a cooling fan never has a good outcome.

 

Now this guy, maybe even up:

 

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Battlefront 15mm IS-2 (ModelMaster medium green, Vallejo off-white/medium gray/dark gray/Russian tan, burnt umber acrylic craft paint, various Vallejo washes, decals by I-94) 

 

But just maybe...


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#219 Kenny Noe

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Posted 11 July 2023 - 07:33 AM

How about this??

 

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#220 healey36

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Posted 11 July 2023 - 10:28 AM

Even up!

 

What scale are those? They look lovely.






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